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With a new sense of liberation we walk around the main Vitality Oasis lake.Similar to the Tropical Paradise pool, it's an inviting mineral-rich pond surrounded by Japanese steam baths, bubble massagers and hundreds of white reclining loungers.

Therme Erding's changing rooms – some unisex, some segregated – lead out to Tropical Paradise.Indeed, Therme Erding's thermal source was only discovered by accident by the US petroleum giant Texaco in 1983.After years of geothermal research, the energy firm drilled for oil but found only a steaming lake of mineral-rich water.But to the naïve eyes of my wife and I, the scene seems almost Bacchanalian, a hedonistic playground as painted by Hieronymus Bosch.Hundreds of happy bathers aged from 18 to 80 splash naked in 34C healing springs.Known as Galaxy, it's a mile or so of state-of-the-art slides, chutes and rapids.

We take an elevator up to the highest slide (yep, no stairs to climb here) and recline on a two-person inflatable sofa. My spatial awareness is governed only by my wife's open-mouthed screams and the g-force in the pit of my stomach.In front of us is a tunnel so wide that you could drive a Fiat Panda through it. At times our inflatable chair corkscrews upwards, thrust uphill by powerful rapids.For a full minute we spiral downwards in pitch darkness, a sensory deprivation jarred by jets of ice water in the face.We head to the Vitality Oasis, the largest and strictly adult-only section of the spa.A giant billboard of a nude couple makes clear that we're about to enter a compulsory clothes-off zone.Our lazy tour continues through scalding footbaths, UV face lamps, rose-petal steam rooms and bath-like floatation pools.